Soy to the World
0 Comments | Seven Days, Feb 21-Feb 28, 2007 | by Kelley, Kevin J
A Hardwick company takes on tofu
The field-and-mountains logo has been designed. The recyclable plastic bottles have been ordered. The stainless-steel machines – some imported from China, others purchased secondhand from local food firms – stand ready in the new Hardwick factory.
All that remains is for Todd Pinkham and Andrew Meyer to actually start producing and selling their company’s organic soy milk and tofu. Following a long and risk-rich prelude, the Northeast Kingdom entrepreneurs are about to discover whether there’s a profitable market for alternatives to the state’s signature dairy products.
Pinkham, 37, established Vermont Soy 11 years ago as a kitchen-sink tempeh-making venture. “One winter day,” Pinkham recalls, “my wife and I were looking through catalogues and saw an ad for tempeh culture. That seemed like an interesting possibility.”
The inspiration for building a business on fermented soybean cakes came from Organic Cow of Vermont. Founded in 1990 and later absorbed by the Dean Foods conglomerate, the Tunbridge milk company proved there was money to be made in switching from conventional to organic dairy farming. It started a statewide trend. Pinkham, a Johnson State College graduate, had worked on a Johnson farm that was one of Organic Cow’s early suppliers. “I saw from Organic Cow that it was possible to find a market for something a lot of people said wouldn’t be viable,” Pinkham explains.
He and his wife, Meg Treadwell, started small, culturing five pounds of tempeh a week for sale at Hardwick’s Buffalo Mountain food co-op. This initial incarnation of Vermont Soy eventually grew to supply about 30 restaurants and food services around the state.
Freshness and local sourcing were the selling points that enabled Pinkham’s product to compete with Lightlife Tempeh, a market leader based in Massachusetts. Pinkham and Meyer plan to play the same artisanal angles as Vermont Soy tries to shoulder its way onto shelves now stocked with Silk brand soy milk, which is also owned by Dean Foods.
“It will taste better than anything you’ve ever had,” declares Meyer, who compares mass-marketed soymilk to Kraft American cheese and his own product to the cheeses hand-crafted at Jasper Hill Farm, just up the road in Greensboro. The 36-year-old Hardwick dairy farmer served for seven years as agriculture policy expert to Senator James Jeffords. “Everything depends on your philosophy and the tools you use,” he adds
soy milk machine